The only place on Earth where you can drink a glass of chilled ceruja is at Uka Farm, a biodynamic vineyard and restaurant near Tirana airport. The idiosyncratic grape climbs the mulberry trees near the shores of Lake Ulëz in northern Albania, and is harvested only once every few years.
Albania may not be known for its wine, but that is slowly changing, as winemakers such as Flori Uka, who purchases the entire ceruja harvest, start to make a name for themselves.
The Adriatic country was almost entirely off-limits to foreigners until 1991, and under forced collectivisation (from the 1950s) only produced two wines: red and white. Today, it is seeing a renaissance of its dozen or so native grapes in 30 innovative wineries.
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